Queen Charlotte Islands, Adventure Travel Trip Log

Sailing vacations to Canada's Queen Charlotte Islands and Great Bear Rainforest

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May 28th - Day 2, daytime -
Bill Reid, Peregrines and Hot Springs Island

A Photographers Paradise
The morning began late for many of us after land night's antics on Limestone Island. We headed towards a small neighbouring island in the hopes of catching a glimpse of a pair of Peale's peregrine falcons that have nested there along the cliffs in recent years. While it took us three 'drive bys', we did succeed in spotting one of the adults sitting up in a small rock cavity on a ledge.

From there, we moved over to the site of Tanu, an abandoned Haida village set amid giant spruce and situated in an inlet much the same as Cumshewa was. The site was actually fairly similar to Cumshewa's though much larger with more examples of long house ruins. It was a photographer's paradise, with lush green grass hiding sunken beams and frontal poles from the long houses.

Tanu is the burial ground of Bill Reid, the most famous and celebrated Haida carver and the artist behind the spectacular works of Haida art in the newest terminal at the Vancouver International Airport and the Canadian Embassy in Washington, DC. His grandfather grew up in Tanu, and Bill Reid's grave site now rests on a prominent point at one end of the village, overlooking a peaceful combination of rock, beach and forest in a neighbouring cove.

Tanu was also the site of our second major wildlife sighting of the day! When we pulled into the bay to anchor, guests spotted an otter swimming towards shore with a rockfish in tow. The Charlottes used to be famous for its sea otters, but they were trapped and extirpated from the islands one hundred years ago. Today, the river otter like the one we saw are the only mustelids (weasel family) left on the Charlottes other than ermine and pine marten.

A Seascape framed by snow capped mountain peaks
The hot springs were exactly as advertised: hot, scenic and more or less all natural. If you can picture yourself sitting in a small very warm pond in a lush coastal setting overlooking a seascape framed by snow capped mountain peaks, then Hot Springs Island is likely a place you would enjoy. Our guests spent more than three hours in total wandering the island and its beaches and of course, soaking in its natural hot springs. We also got the opportunity to chat with the four Watchmen: a young Haida woman from Prince Rupert, a young man from Terrace (also on the mainland of British Columbia), a man from Queen Charlotte City and an elder, a woman from Skidegate. The Watchmen program always tries to place the Haida young people in the company of an elder at these sites so that the young people can learn from the elders and pass on their knowledge to future Haida generations.

The night ended with us anchoring next to Hot Springs Island in a beautiful sheltered cove.

< Day 1, Canada's 'Galapagos of the North'
< Day 2, A New Found Respect for Queen Charlotte Seabird Researchers
Day 2 daytime, A Photographers Paradise
> Day 3, Whale Watching Extravaganza
> Day 4, The start of a very special day
> Day 5, Bears and the Enchanted Forest
> Day 6, When You Sea Stars of all Colours
> Day 7, The Shining Wonder